Clone Trooper Armor Pepakura Files Foam

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This Instructable will show you how to build a suit of Clone Armour out of ordinary foam, cardboard, and duct tape. This particular suit was constructed for my 12-year-old step-brother, using an action figure as reference. A few pieces are missing (such as the hand guards, ab plate, and thermal detonator) but the look is definitely conveyed. From start to finish, this project took about a month and-a-half to complete. I can't accurately determine a budget, as I already had several of the materials on hand, but expect to pay $50+ if you are buying everything. Anyway, on to the steps! Step 1: Materials.

Interlocking Foam floor mats- Found at Home Depot and Harbor Freight Tools, comes in packs of four-$18 (you will need 2 four-packs) Cardboard-Any will work as long as it's corrugated-Free! Craft foam-Sold at most craft stores in 12'x18' sheets-99 cents a sheet Plasti-Dip Spray-Sold at Home Depot-$6.95 a can-This build requires at least six cans Glossy White Spray Paint-$4.48 a can-You will need about four cans. Poster board or other stiff paper-For making templates Duct Tape!-Also found at Home Depot and most craft stores Elastic straps-Found at most craft stores Heat gun-Used for shaping the foam Hot glue gun+hot glue-Used to assemble the suit Dremel-Used for relief details (Optional) Latex caulking-Used to fill in the seams where the foam comes together. Gives a more 'solid' look, but isn't entirely necessary Step 2: Making Templates.

Hot glue the chest pieces together, and glue the craft foam pieces to the cardboard. You'll also want to carve a groove down the center of the chest plate with the dremel. Also carve a groove following the blue line shown on the codpiece. If you choose to use the latex caulking, lay down a line along the seam, and smooth it with a paper towel. After that's done, cut some elastic straps and and glue the chest and back together at the shoulders and sides. I didn't get many pictures of the strapping process, as I was wrapped up with college at the time, but I'll try to explain it as best I can.

The shins (not pictured) are held together by three straps on each side. The shoulder bells connect to the shoulder straps with a single piece of elastic, and an additional strap is glued to the bottom edge of the bell that connects to the upper arm.

There is also a loop on the bell that keeps it from flopping around. The thighs are connected to the codpiece with a single strap on each side. The bottom of the cod piece connects to the bottom of the butt plate with a single strap. Step 5: Plasti-dip.

Before you can paint the pieces, they will need to be sealed, as foam is porous (and will therefore absorb paint). Plasti-Dip is a rubberized spray that is usually used to give tools 'grip,' and will seal porous surfaces.

Prepare your working area, set up your pieces, and spray. Each piece will need two coats. For the first coat, just spray until you can't see the color of the foam anymore. After it dries, the foam will have absorbed the spray in a few areas. For the second coat, spray a heavier coating on the areas that got absorbed, and rub it in with a paper towel. Use a circular motion, as this will give a smooth surface.

Step 6: Painting.

Hi troopers and prop makes. This is my very first take at Pepakura. I would like to mention that I'm not trying to do an 100% accurate bucket.

But rather have fun, learn and see how far a trooper such as myself with little to non pepakura or papercraft experience can take a pepakura file. In the beginning I was planning on doing a halo helmet. But at the last minute changed my mind and went with the iconic stormtrooper helmet instead and let me tell you that I'm glad I did. Many thanks to Spacecowboy for providing me with the pepakura file and rosskow for pointing out all the blemishes of the build also the other fellows over the therpf.com Stay tuned for part 2 Music: Lloyds tsb advert List of materials thus far.

Spacecowboy pep file. (Free file download.) Xacto knife or scissors. Regular paper for printing the file.

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Card stock (to give rigidity to the regular paper) Resin 2 brushes (cheap kind) Fiberglass cloth 1 gallon of lightweight filler. 36 grit sand paper ( dry ) 80 grit sand paper ( dry ) 150 grit sand paper ( dry) Wood 1' x 1' x 1/4' for vocoder and teeth.